Turbo Oil Feed Line Connection Diagram for the Mazdaspeed 3
First off. Before mounting turbo to the manifold, make sure you have the turbo clocked correctly. Oil drain flange facing vertically downwards, oil feed flange vertically upwards.
Starting off with the oil feed…
Biggest obstacle, the location of the banjo fitting that exits the block. It's behind the alternator, so remove the alternator and remove the oil fitting. Some are able to remove the fitting without removing the alternator, but to be honest after doing it 4 times I think it's easier to get it out of the way, especially when re-installing it to ensure you thread the bolt properly, you DO NOT want to strip it out.
To me, it's easier to just have things fabricated basically the way i've laid it out, after doing it all twice and three times its easier to just do it right rather than trying to piece together the stock lines.
This is what we're talking about:
Because of this tight location, being that the alternator when fully bolted down is about an inch or less away from the block, you don't have much flexibility in
running the line out of there. It must be a straight shot. One end of the oil feed line has curvature, which cannot be bent otherwise it will crack. It is very thin stainless steel. The other end is straight, which is originally used in that location.
Here's the stock line:
After you take all that heat wrap shit off you just have a kinky, steel line. It's not bendable, so don't get crazy with it. Now, chop it in half.
You want to use a 4an fitting. For those who don't know, an fittings (army-navy) are in units of fractions/16". So, 4an = 4/16"= 1/4", and they're similar to a pipe thread with flared ends. To me, it's easiest to chop the stock feed line, leaving about 4-5" on the straight end from cut to the banjo fitting. This will allow clearance to exit past the alternator when bolted down. Now that the cut has been made, have a 4an male fitting welded on it. This fitting will have an extremely similar inner diameter as the stock feed line.. You will end up looking like this:
4an is what is recommended for almost any turbo in terms of feed. This will provide adequate flow because the line carries decent amounts of pressure. Which brings me to my next point, Im advising having these fittings welded/brazed on for a reason. Don't half-ass the feed line and clamp hose on in-between, it will leak, and it will leak majorly. Mine was not seated properly and I started the car and lost about 3qt's in 30 seconds out of a very small leak.
Now that you have this male fitting, you will need some 4an SS braided (teflon lined) hose with female-female ends.
[ATP Part Number: CUSTOM-OIL-FEED-LINE]
How much hose will you need? It depends on the placement of your manifold and turbo, and how your turbo is clocked. On my setup (which is close but not exact to stock placement) I used exactly 20" from fitting end to fitting end from the end of the 4" stock fitting just after the block to the turbo. This SS line is relatively easy to work with in such a small size, but you still cannot make too tight of a kink with it. When it kinks, you will know, and it will leak. The SS will puncture the teflon hose inside.
On the turbo side, you will now need a fitting with a male end that will thread into the turbo, and a male end that will connect to the other end of this 4an braided line. Very Important: If you're using a BALL BEARING TURBO (just as the stock turbo is) you need a restrictor in your oil feed line! You will drown the turbo with oil which will cause it to fail. The stock oil feed line provides a restrictor in the second banjo fitting/bolt that bolts to the stock turbo, the curvy end, so be sure to keep the two bolts straight after uninstall.
***IF using a Garrett Ball Bearing Turbo (gt28, gt30, gt35, gt40, etc) the oil restrictor is actually built into the cartridge, so no need to worry about this.
Most commonly, the stock turbo side will be m12x1.5pitch female thread, so you will need to adapt male-male. This is what Garret/Precision uses for their turbos for the most part.
Ball Bearing Turbos : Must have 0.035" hole size (~1/32")
Journal Bearing Turbos: NO oil restrictor
ATP Part Number: ATP-OIL-021]
If you cannot achieve a good angle on the oil feed line on the turbo side without damaging the SS line, 4an female-male fittings can be found in 45* and 90*. If using a ball bearing turbo though, remember to retain the fitting posted above so that you have the restrictor in place. The 4an female-male fitting will be used BEFORE the restrictor, between the hose and restrictor fitting.
[ATP Part Number: ATP-FTG-017]
[ATP Part Number: ATP-FTG-016]
At this point you're done with the oil feed line. To recap, from block to turbo you will have:
Block--> Stock banjo fitting + ~4" stock line with welded 4an male --> 4an SS braided line --> 4an male --> m12x1.5 male fitting + oil restrictor (if applicable) --> turbo (female m12x1.5pitch))
Now the Oil Return line..
It is crucial that you use 10an line (10an = 10/16" = 5/8") to provide adequate flow of oil out of the turbo and back into the block. This line CANNOT have any uphill sections, at all. Because it is much larger, it is not nearly as pressurized as the feed line. If oil has to travel uphill anywhere in this line, it is likely to back-up and re-enter the turbo. This will ruin your turbo, quickly.
The biggest obstacle here is that with most stock or near stock setups (like mine) the flanges are very close to each other, providing for a short line, and therefore less flexibility. 10an SS braided hose is a mother fucker to work with, and does not bend/flex easily. If you push it too far, it will kink and ruin.
Stock line, for reference:
To get started, things are a bit easier than the feed line. Coincidentally the flange that provides the 10an male fitting that will bolt to the turbo drain is the same as the fitting that will bolt to the block in its flange construction. It looks like this:
[ATP Part Number: ATP-
-015]
Just be cautious if using another turbo, with my Precision the flange shape was slightly different.. however it is still easier to use one to bolt to the block and retrieve one specific to your turbo from the manufacturer like I did.
If using a Garret GT turbo, TWO of these flanged fittings will be needed; one that will bolt to the block (using the stock bolts) and one to the bottom side of the turbo (bolts should be supplied if buying new turbo) Don't forget new gaskets too:
[ATP Part Number: GRT-GSK-008]
This is what it looks like bolted up to the turbo:
Now, you have two 10an male fittings to work with. The tricky part (for me) was connecting the two smoothly using SS line without creating any uphill sections in the passage. As I mentioned before, the 10an SS braided line is hell to work with, but if you can make it work it is most recommended for heat resistance and durability.
If going the SS braided route, you will need:
[ATP Part Number: CUSTOM-OIL-RETURN-LINE]
Which you can have built with 45* ends, 90* ends, straights, one of each, etc..
Because it is such a small space to work with, everyones setup will be different. You'll have to mount the turbo up and take measurements before placing an order, because for me it was easier to use straight ended 10an hose with 10an female-male adapters on either end in 45* or 90*
High grade, very heat resistant silicon hose is also common and much easier to work with, which is what I used. I coiled a long spring inside the hose to prevent it from kinking, and it certainly makes life much easier. Just make sure it is 5/8" ID, anything smaller will restrict flow.
[ATP Part Number: ATP-OIL-024]
If going this route, ignore the above step, you will need two of these (one on turbo, one on block side):
[ATP Part Number: ATP-FLA-010]
And Two of these: One to connect to each end of the hose, and then thread into the female ends provided by the fitting posted above..
[ATP Part Number: ATP-OIL-023]
Coolant Lines:
The Stock Banjo lines coming off the turbo look like this:
There are two of them, one return, one feed. They're identical in flow specs, inner diameter, the banjo bolts are the same as well. The only difference is that they are shaped slightly differently towards the ends, to conform to the stock setup. They're fully interchangeable though.
The first time around, I actually used them backwards. They fit better this way for my setup.
If you don't feel comfortable re-running the stock lines, you can replace them with -6AN banjo's from ATP
For those of you running Journal Bearing turbos, such as myself.. Your turbo likely doesn't require a coolant flow. In this case...
Remove both hard lines from the turbo..
You will now have one male nipple open on the back of the EGR valve, and one open male nipple on the main coolant line, which goes back and makes a 90* turn into the firewall, and also extends to the front of the car under the Intake Manifold (IIRC). If you cannot locate this second nipple, its just above where you'd normally be installing an inlet on a turbo in the stock location, if that helps.
Now, connect the two together, lawl. I even used one of the stock lines. A few people have blocked both ends, which you could do. Personally, I didn't want to kill coolant flow to the EGR valve, after looking at it it seemed as though coolant would stop at the end of the valve, and have no exit. But, I was never able to track down a coolant diagram with flow directions, so I don't know for sure. I wanted to keep it as stock as possible, basically replicating the stock setup but without a turbo between the two nipples.
****Getting more specs.. will update soon and often!******
__________________
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Source: https://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/f626/big-turbo-oil-coolant-line-how-125215/
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